Sunday, January 11, 2009

Visitors


Good-Morning People of the Tent, I come in Peace! I have to admit that sleeping in the tents gave me some anxiety at first. I poked the tent with my finger and whispered at Valerie "Nylon, Mother, Nylon." She laughed at me, as she does. Inside the confines of the eating cage Prospa told us that we should stay inside the tent at night and if we hear strange sounds that we should stay put inside. For all of my worries the only visitor we had at the campsite was this little fellow.

Safari Part 6.6


As we were driving along Valerie hollered at Prospa to stop, he did and then reversed to try and find what Valerie had seen. In that 30 seconds these Jackals had already decided to leave. It took me too long to turn my camera on and to try and focus it on the running animals to get any kind of decent image. I still can't believe we saw them. They were so graceful.

Safari Part 6.5





On our second day in the Serengeti we stopped for lunch at a picnic spot. Not a minute after we were out of the vehicle rain poured down up on us. It was our first rainfall in Africa, and it was a welcome surprise after being deprived of bathing water at the campsite. As the rain fell these tiny birds manifested around us hopping up and down hoping for some lunch treats.

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Safari Part 6.4

I took this picture while on safari. Leopards are really the only thing we didn't see on safari. I showed this shot to Prospa and he was stunned, he asked me how I had done this. When I told him he nearly peed himself. This picture is a close-up of a postcard.

Safari Part 6.3




We saw these lions from a distance. I thought this is what the entire safari would be like, that we would only see animals from far away. These pictures were taken with my zoom focused as far as it would go 20X. The other thing I find interesting about these shots is the proximity of the lions to the migrating herds. Every now and then a zebra would wander over and whinny at the lions but it didn't start off any kind of panic.

We interrupt our regularly scheduled...

The conflict in Gaza really upsets me. I have signed petitions, I have watched the news, I have tried to understand. I have Jewish friends and I have Islamic friends. I find the whole scenario heartbreaking. One of my Egyptian students started a group on facebook called "We hate Israel." This is coming from a nine year old boy, how can someone so young know what it is to hate? I know this sounds silly but I wish there was something I could do, something pro-active. I would donate blood to the red cross but I am not allowed (malaria). I have signed this letter from Amnesty International, perhaps you will to.

Safari Part 6














Our first game drive in Tanzania. We saw a giant spider web, and a crazy birds nest. Also we were there in the season of the short rains which as it turns out is also the major migration season for wildebeasts and zebras, lots and lots of animals. It is impossible to convey just how many animals we saw, as far as the eye could see there they were. Then when we drove on for hours they were still always there as far as the horizon, it was incredible. When the wildebeasts started to run between the trucks Emily whispered "...Mufasa..."

Safari Part 5.5





This was our campsite in Tanzania. The third picture is the caged area where they kept us during feeding time. The last picture is the area where all of the cooks prepared our meals.
I had mixed feelings about this campsite. First of all it was out in the open, there were nothing between us and nature, as was demonstrated on our first night when a giraffe walked into camp. Second, they told us that they put us in the cage at meal time to protect us from baboons who liked to steal food, right baboons. Finally there was never any water for bathing, and we spent three nights and four days there, four hot African days in a truck with no air conditioning. On the up side it was beautiful, and quiet. The skies at night were fantastic, soooo many stars!! It was nice to be forced into the meal area at night time because it meant we had to be social, we couldn't just go and hide in our rooms. I learned how to play a card came from northern Ontario called yuker, it is so much fun!! We met all kinds of interesting people there from all over the world. My favorite encounter was with this touch looking guy, he looked like Vin Diesel except old. It turns out he is an American veterinarian living in Nigeria working for U.S.Aid, he is in charge of a group working against bird flu in Africa. We called him Vinnie the Vet (but not to his face). We also enjoyed our encounter with the French group, when they discovered there was no water they all took sponge baths from their water bottles in full view of the other campers wearing nothing but their underwear. Last but not least there was the mullet, he was from somewhere in Eastern Europe. The mullet followed us around from campsite to campsite and every time we saw him we got the giggles. It wasn't just that he had a mullet, but he had curled the bottom, and he insisted on wearing a shirt with the sleeves cut off, and camouflage pants.
Gamba our cook was awesome, he is such a nice guy. For breakfast every morning we would have fried eggs, toast, fruit, pancakes, and hot dog wieners. Lunch was almost always a boxed lunch which included; chicken leg, bag of chips, bag of nuts, boiled egg, apple juice, cheese and carrot sandwich, chocolate bar, and an orange. Dinner was always huge, it included some kind of soup, a main course and then dessert. On Christmas eve he hung up a Merry Christmas banner and made us a special cake. We all wore silly Santa hats and I had stockings hung by our table for the other three, we out christmassed everyone else there!

Safari Part 5: The drive from Kenya to Tanzania






We drove, and drove, and drove, and drove some more. When that was done we drove even more!

We left the Mara lodge around 7:15 am. We arrived at the campsite in the Serengeti around 3pm. It was a loooong drive. The border crossing was kind of cool, but we weren't allowed to take any pictures. We said our good-byes to Joshua the coolest guide ever, and met our new guide Prospa, and our cook Gamba. We were going to miss Joshua a lot. Prospa was kind of...well difficult. His knowledge of the area was amazing, and he knew every animal, he just wasn't really a people person.

When we arrived at the gates of the Serengeti park we were met by Vervet monkeys, I really liked the one who sat at the table just chilling. As we left the gate we drove past a puddle with the saddle billed stork starring at us as if to say "Who the fuck are you?"

Safari Part 4.8





Our last evening in Kenya. We saw lots and lots of animals, mostly because of Valerie's eagle-eye performance. Our guide was amazed that she spotted a pride of lions hanging out on a ridge. As we bumbled around in our van we heard that another cheetah had been spotted on the other side of the ravine. Joshua took us to a crossing point with a very steep incline. In the top picture you can see a van approaching the crossing but it doesn't really show you how steep it was. As we sat and watched three trucks go down we marveled at how each vehicle drove at a nearly verticle angle down the track. When it was our turn Emily balked, she didn't want to do it. Valerie backed her up and told Joshua to find another way. So we didn't see the second cheetah but with Valerie's crazy eagle-eye we saw spotted mongoose (mongeese?) and the timid bat-eared fox.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Safari Part 4.5




During the middle of the day most animals sleep so we went to explore a Masai village. As we pulled up to the village Joshua told us that two Masai were attacked the night before by a lion, they killed it but one of them had to be taken to the hospital. Imagine for a moment living in a place where lions roam free, and that on an every day walk in your neighborhood at anytime you could be attacked by a 400 pound carnivore. We would see Masai people walking freely about the inside of the Masai Mara reserve, and lions aren't really even the worst case scenario there.

Our visit to the Masai village was interesting. We didn't take many pictures of the Masai out of the villages because we were trying to be respectful of their wishes. So in order to take some pictures of them we paid $20USD to enter a special village, witness traditional dances, and take as many pictures as we wanted. The thing is, it felt a little bit like Disney-Masai town to me. I think they built the area to keep tourists out of their space, this way they could control the images that people capture. Which is fine. It just didn't feel very real, and I know authenticity of any kind is a construct but I just felt silly wandering around the fake village. They made us all wear the giant lion-mane hat and then they danced around us singing and I'm not good in situations like that. I'm not a joiner, I'm a watch and mock-er! The dances were cool, and the songs were beautiful. As we were being included people kept asking us our names and introducing themselves, which we learned later is a part of the hard sell. After the tour we were taken outside to the market, where people were shouting out our names and trying to get us to buy things. The money from the market, and the admissions to the village go to the maintenance of schools, and clinics.
Its funny, I like traveling, I just don't like being a tourist. I think there is a difference, tourists pay lots of money for strange experiences like visiting fake villages and paying money to have a lion mane hat plunked on their head. Travelers go to places and try to get a sense of the place, learn the language, meet people and form friendships. Perhaps the distinction is as phony as the village, who knows...

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Safari Part Four











On our third day in Africa we had an amazing day. We got up early in the morning to go for a game drive because most animals are most active at early morning or late afternoon. We saw so many wonderful things. The best part of the day for me was seeing an ancient bull elephant coming over the horizon. He was magnificent. We came across another strange tour at the same time we saw the aged elephant, four people in a little hatchback driving across the Savannah. Not only was it strange that they were in a little city commuter car but they weren't even sticking to the trails they were off-roading it. As we starred in puzzlement at the little grey car a whole other group of elephants appeared, and they had a tiny baby elephant with them. The baby was so small the grass came up past it's shoulders. Joshua guessed the baby was about a week old. We left the elephants to the people in the grey car and drove off in search of leopards by the riverside. I couldn't believe it when the cheetah wandered down the hillside in front of us, it just walked softly by and disappeared into the scrub.